Lonely Grape TV Episode #80 Alpha Box & Dice Enigma

Posted on August 2, 2011 by Lonely Grape

A pleasant look at an emerging variety – Barbera. Sure it is blended with Cabernet but a journey to a new variety from one of my favorite wineries – Alpha Box & Dice.

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McLaren Vale Wines – Genders Wines 2005 McLaren Park Shiraz

Posted on July 31, 2011 by Lonely Grape

I love my job – well it is not really a job, but I love it anyway. I get the opportunity to visit wonderful people and talk about wine, and yes even drink some as well. This week I had the pleasure to be invited to Genders Wines to taste their new release – 2005 Genders McLaren Park Shiraz. What a wonderful 2 hours I had. I always enjoy discussing things in wine with Dianna Genders (winemaker, vinerion and all round everything for Genders Wines).

Dianna Genders at Genders Wines

The winery is just outside the McLaren Vale Sports Ground and most people that drive past the winery, they do not even know it is there. Well there it really is. Yes, the winery looks like it may have stopped operation many years ago, but this could not be further from the truth. The winery and vineyards are run and operated by Dianna and in my mind she does a great job in the face of what the industry is doing to many small operators. The wines are quite distinctive if for no other reason that Dianna will not release her wines until she believes it is ready. In her eyes almost all wine is released too early.

Genders Wines has a long history of grape growing and then wine making – I have written about them in a previous blog. Check it out here.

Anyway, I should talk about the wine……

2005 McLaren Park Shiraz ($40)
Firstly, this is a classical Genders wine with all the developed characters but more importantly for me the wines change so much over a period of time. One of the reasons I was there so long (well that was my excuse anyway). The aromas started with developed dark briary fruits but after a while changed to that typically shown from Dianna’s wines – floral notes. Then some cinnamon kicks in as well. The flavors also change dramatically. Firstly starts with the briary / black fruits with oak tannins not over done and lots of good acid i.e. Really good structure. Over time the flavors change to include lots of spices and not your normal spices. I got more of cardamon and sage as the wine opened up. After being open for nearly 2 hours there were more changes – the fruits of blackberries and blueberries came through.

Two things I thought of after trying the wine. Firstly, the changes over time from these wines are a joy and even though many people will not get the most from these wines (as there will be limited breathing of the wine), Dianna’s decision to keep these wines back until they are mature enough provides the drinker with inexperience that is not normally achieved unless you or a friend has a wine cellar. Secondly, the red wines from this vineyard and winery has a distinctness about them and I am starting to understand this winery and the wines being produced.

I am also happy to let you know that Dianna has allowed this wine to be sold on-line from Taste McLaren Vale Web Site in the coming weeks.

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McLaren Vale Wines – Geology of the McLaren Vale Wine Region Map

Posted on July 24, 2011 by Lonely Grape

With geology there is wine – sounds strange but the soils and earth make a difference to the resultant wine.  This has been strengthened by my 2009 McLaren Vale Scarce Earth Project wine tastings.  Some wineries had different wines from neighboring vineyards that were oh so different.  I can hear a lot of people saying – What about the climate and vineyard orientation?  Yes they are very important but from the soil comes flavor.  I cannot remember where I heard this little gem, but – each cubic meter of soil only has so much flavor, so do not push the vines too much. What really happens is that all the factors of soil, climate, irrigation, carbon concentration in the soil, spraying factors, nutritional supplements and so much more make what the wine is today.

So why such an introduction?  Well after many many years of working on a map of the McLaren Vale geology project last year PIRSA (Primary Industry and Resources SA) together with McLaren Vale Grape Wine and Tourism Association published this geological map.  The map shows the geological variations of the McLaren Vale region with an overlay of wineries and vineyards.

Being a wine nurd I find the information facinating.  The sandy soils of Blewitt Springs that provide a smokey / peaty flavors to the Bay od Biscay soils of the Willungs Plains producing wines of strength – what a joy they provide.

Want to know more – then read what one of the authors, Philip White, think about this wonderful creation by clicking here.

If my information is correct the map is available at member wineries of the McLaren Vale Grape, Wine and Tourism.

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Lonely Grape TV Episode #79 – 90 Mile Wines Shiraz

Posted on July 19, 2011 by Lonely Grape

A very interesting wine from a small winery – well worth checking out 90 Mile Wines.

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McLaren Vale Wines – Assorted wines from Maximus, Coriole, Penny’s Hill and Primo Estate

Posted on July 16, 2011 by Lonely Grape

I have not been feeling well this weekend and I was concerned about what I could write about for this weekend’s blog. So I went looking through my recent wine notes and though I would share some interesting wines I have tried over the last few weeks (while I have been checking out the Scarce Earth Project wines). I hope you enjoy these select wines and hopefully my cold will be over soon so I can share more winery reviews soon.

2009 Maximus GSM
This wine was only 0.1 point from the Bushings King award from the 2010 McLaren Vale wine show. At the same show the wine was award the Trophy for the best Grenache based blend. Others have like it as it is now being served at our Prime Minister Hosted dinners. With this build up, I was looking forward to this wine. The wine did not disappoint. I enjoyed the 2008 wine from the same stable but this is just one big step up. The aromas are dominated initially by the red fruits of Grenache (raspberry and cherry). There is an interesting transfer to a savory aroma that I suspect comes from the Mourvedre. The flavors can be summed up by one word – balance. The red fruits of the Grenache come through again in spades and the tannin structure is just so complementary to that fruit. Plenty of acid here as well so it made my mouth water and think of food. This combination produces plenty of flavor that lasts and lasts at $25 per bottle this wine is a steal.

2009 Primo Estate Joseph Double Pruned Cabernet Magnum ($A275)
Joe Grilli, owner and senior winemaker has mad a career of being innovative. 10 years ago he made a wine from Angle Vale Cabernet (very hot climate area) and I am told the wine was an absolute beauty. The secrete was the vines were double pruned. In this case the primary crop was pruned early so a second crop would be produced by the vines. This second crop is much less than the initial crop would have been and the grapes ripen much later. In 2009 Joe decided to have another go at this unusually produced wine and put all of the wine into magnums. Well I am glad I was told this wine was from Angle Vale fruit as I would have made somewhat of a fool of myself with this review as all I could see were cool climate characters. The aromas showed the customary blackcurrent but then I got green herbaceous characters with an interesting hint of mint – which would immediately make me think this was a cool climate wine and even potentially from Coonawarra. There is also evidence of dusty oak. I do not like wines that show to many green characters and I was concerned this wine was going to be very green. Well I was wrong again – the wine was an amalgam of blackcurrent and very fine tannins. Lots and lots of character and lots and lots of time ahead of this wine. An absolute beauty that so many people will never see – what a pitty.

2007 Coriole Vita Reserve Sangiovese ($A50)
Coriole has a long history of growing and making wine from the Italian grape variety of Sangiovese. As a warming area McLaren Vale should be well suited to this variety. They have also been working on a Reserve style to produce a “Super Tuscan” wine. I have tasted earlier Reserve efforts and had felt they were just aged versions of their estate wines. This wine, however, was different straight away. The aromas were a mouth watering mix of juicy black fruits. The flavors continued in the juicy fruits mode with layers of very fine tannins. The oak influence is there but it plays an integrated part. Balanced and long lasting means this wine was wrapped up and brought home with me. My mouth is watering while writing this and I have put the wine away so I do not get tempted to drink it just yet.

2009 Penny’s Hill The Experiment Grenache ($A30)
The last 2 times I have been to the Penny’s Hill cellar door this wine was not available, so when I heard there Grenache was available then I just had to drop in. The aromas showed both the expected red fruits but a lot more cedar from the oak than I would expect for this variety. Even though the oak continued in the same vain in the flavors this wine was what I would call lovely McLaren Vale Grenache – all those red fruits and the oak mixed with a great acid profile that assisted the wonderfully long flavors and mouthfeel of the wine. Yes I love this variety and yes the wine has more wood treatment that I would normally agree with, but the whole thing works. Put the wine away for a couple of years and I would expect an even better wine.

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Lonely Grape TV Episode # 78 – Cellar Key and QR Codes

Posted on July 12, 2011 by Lonely Grape

Checking out how QR codes maybe used in the future of wine marketing. Imagine going to a wine store and seeing lots of wines you do not know. Imagine each of these wines having a QR code. A free QR code reader on ones phone can link to the wine producers web site so you can get up to date information on the wine. I find this concept somewhat cool.

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McLaren Vale Wine – Final Chapter of 2009 Scarce Earth Shiraz Project

Posted on July 9, 2011 by Lonely Grape

Welcome to the 7th and final  installment of my McLaren Vale 2009 Scarce Earth Project Shiraz journey.   The first 6 installments can be viewed:-

Scarce Earth Shiraz post – Fox Creek

Scarce Earth Project Shiraz Part 2 – Shingleback, Brash Higgins & Five Geese

Scarce Earth Project #3 – Kangarilla Road & Sabella

Scarce Earth Project Shiraz #4 – Hugh Hamilton, Chapel Hill, Primo Estate & Coriole

Scarce Earth Project Shiraz #5 – Penny’s Hill, Paxton and Maxwell

Scarce Earth Project Shiraz #6 – Tripple d’Arenberg action

2009 Serafino Terremoto  Syrah ($A80)

The grapes for the wine come from the Shark Block vineyard in Willunga.  The fruit from this 5 acres were used to make 100 cases of wine.  The wine was opened for me so it had not been breathing for long – even so the aromas showed intense plum action with a lovely violet perfume that finished with what was reminiscent of prune juice.  The flavors are intense and long with lots of the McLaren Vale plum on the mid palette and powerful but fine grained tannins.  As expected this wine needs time.

2009 HALiFAX Per Se Block Shiraz ($A50)

I was so looking forward to this wine – and I was not disappointed.   Lots of plum and cherry fruits start off and then goes into milk chocolate and white pepper.  It all finishes up with leaving the amalgam with fresh green cardamon pod character.  Flavors of fresh dark plums with some red cherries thrown in as well.  Cedar oak was complimentary with the fruit with the pepper and cardamon pod still coming through.  I enjoyed the balance and can see this wine will see many good years ahead of it.

2009 Scarce Earth Project Shiraz Wrap-up

My feeling was the 2009 Project wines were rushed to be ready for the consumer in time.  This in part was the want of the winemakers to give their best wines the best oak.  I feel many of the wines have had their great fruit over done with oak.  I say this with the understanding many people, particularly in the wine business, will not agree.  The project was started to show off what wonderful Shiraz the various soil types can produce in McLaren Vale.  The project was not to show off who could load up the most oak.

So I can hear you ask, what were my favorite wines from the McLaren vale Scarce Earth Project Shiraz?  Well I could not split 3 wines – the Five Geese Reserve, Fox Creek  and the HALiFAX Per Se.  They all showed the characters of the different areas.  Coming a close fourth was the Brash Higgins wine that showed the characteristics of the vineyard on Malpas Road.

Thanks to all the 17 wineries with 20 wines for the pleasure of trying these wines.  I also understand the 2010 Scarce Earth Shiraz nominations were due this week so it will not be to far away and we can go through the Scarce Earth Project ride again.

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Lonely Grape TV Episode #77 – Halifax Wines Scarce Earth Project Shiraz

Posted on July 5, 2011 by Lonely Grape

Join me is tasting on the the wines from the 2009 McLaren Vale Scarce Earth Project. This project has been put together to show the best that is McLaren Vale. Shiraz is a local icon and almost grows like a weed here. Secondly, there are such diverse soil types – check out the McLaren Vale Geological Map to such this diversity.
This wine comes from the Halifax winery, where Peter & Lizzy are passionate about the wines they produce. I would be passionate about the wines to after tasting this McLaren Vale beauty.

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McLaren Vale Wine – tripple d’Arenberg Scarce Earth Project Shiraz

Posted on July 2, 2011 by Lonely Grape

Welcome to the 6th installment of my McLaren Vale Scarce Earth Project Shiraz journey – a trio of offerings from d’Arenberg.   The first 5 installments can be viewed:-

Scarce Earth Shiraz post – Fox Creek

Scarce Earth Project Shiraz Part 2 – Shingleback, Brash Higgins & Five Geese

Scarce Earth Project #3 – Kangarilla Road & Sabella

Scarce Earth Project Shiraz #4 – Hugh Hamilton, Chapel Hill, Primo Estate & Coriole

Scarce Earth Project Shiraz #5 – Penny’s Hill, Paxton and Maxwell

Of the 3 wines below, which one was my favorite?  I am not sure, depending on wine age and what I was eating then there was a place for all 3.  The price range was double that of the average Scarce Earth Project Shiraz wine – so it would be up to you to determine if the wines were good value.

As usual these wines are only available at the cellar door and there is a $5 flight charge for the tasting of the 3 wines.

d'Arenberg Scarce Earth Shiraz

2009 The Fruit Bat Shiraz ($A99)

This wine comes from a part of a single vineyard.  The vineyard is on the corner of Foggo Road and Kays Road and the grapes were situated on the higher rows that have their roots in shallow grey loam.  The grapes were more de-stemmed than crushed with whole berries being foot crushed about two thirds the way through fermentation then transferred into new and old French oak plus old American oak.  The name of the wine comes from bats that used to find their home in an old building on the property.

The aromas started with red fruits that just seemed to jump out of the glass at my nose as it got closer to the glass.  I went back to smell this wine a number of times and I got some smoky peatyness and pepper then, somewhat strangely, eucalyptus.  When I tasted it there was a mouthful of tannic cherries that melted into a peaty mid palate.  I am not sure this was typically McLaren Vale Shiraz but it was a typical d’Arenberg wine.

2009 The Little Venice Shiraz ($A99)

From the same vineyard as The Fruit Bat, but from the lower (bottom of the hill) and has similar shallow soils.  The difference here is there is a spring and thus provides plenty of water for the vines.  This vineyard with plenty of water provides the reason for the wine name.  Part of this vineyard has been transferred into biodynamic practices as part of d’Arenberg’s experimentation into vineyard improvements.  The wine treatments are practically the same for The Fruit Bat Shiraz.

What a difference from essentially the same vineyard!  Here was aromas of plums with floral notes (maybe violets) some oak and cardamon pod spice hits.  The flavors started with some fruit sweetness (maybe from the berries being crushed part way through fermentation) that went into a more intense cherry and plum profiles.  The tannins were more chunky than The Fruit Bat – again so different for what was the same vineyard.

2009 The Eight Iron Shiraz ($A99)

Located on the original Osborne property near the winery, cellar door and restaurant complex, this vineyard is roughly shaped like a golf club and is said to be as wide as a good eight iron shot (not that I would know).  The soils are grey loam over limestone.

I understand that one cannot smell sweetness, but that is what I got straight away from this one.  Dark plums are indicating more ripe flavors and what I can only describe as typically McLaren Vale Shiraz here.  The mid palate length one expects with intensity of fruit and tannins.  Also get a hint of crushed ants, which is typical of d’Arenberg.

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McLaren Vale Wines – McLaren Vale Scarce Earth Shiraz #5

Posted on June 27, 2011 by Lonely Grape

The 5th installment in my 2009 Scarce Earth Project McLaren Vale Shiraz wine tasting ( there is still more to go).

2009 Penny’s Hill Footprint Shiraz ($A65)

From the foothills vineyard this wine has been a pert of the Penny’s Hill range for a few years.  This 2009 offering starts with a mixture of spices, cedar and plums.  As expected from the Scarce Earth wines there is depth and strength here.  Flavors of plums and cedary oak and that McLaren Vale mid pallatte showing strength.  The tannins are not over done and I found the good acid providing assistance to the lengthy finish.

2009 Paxton Cracker Barrels Shiraz ($A50)

Paxton Wines 19th Vineyard

I have not had the Cracker Barrels Shiraz before and I was able to taste both the 2007 and 2009 version.  Interestingly the wines could not really have been more different.  The rationale for choosing the wine for this label is to find those couple of barrels of wine that are just superior to the others and really impresses the wine making team.  Thus the view is to get the best wine into this label and not to provide a consistent style.  The 2009 wine is from the 19th Vineyard (see photo) on Seaview road, near Olivers Vineyards.  Vineyard is double cordon trellised, biodynamic practices with a wild yeast ferment.  100% American oak for 22 months and bottles in March.

Aromas of smokey peat (maybe from the sandy soils) wonderful shiraz fruit that has that real plum swing.  The flavors shows so much.  Coconut character from the oak, the same smokey peat and plums.  Then black fruits kick in with such a balanced length to the wine.  This wine really needs time and it really is only just starting to clam down after bottling.

2009 Maxwells Eocene Ancient Earth Shiraz ($A45)

Maxwell Wines Estate Vineyard

From the block below the winery complex this vineyard is on loam over limestone (from the Eocene Epoch and hence the wine’s name) was planted in 1953 and on it’s own root stocks.  The aromas were very interesting with dark cherries and aniseed – not what I expected or had been experiencing from Scarce Earth Shiraz.  The flavors can be described as black.  Dark fruits (plum, blackberry and cherries) with balanced cedary oak with some lovely dark chocolate finish.  Even though this wine needs a lot of time in the bottle to see it’s best, I really enjoyed this wine.

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