McLaren Vale Wines – Dowie Doole

11 09 2011

Dowie Doole has moved it’s tasting facility to it’s headquarters on California Road. They were previously at the Salopian Inn with Gemtree wines until recent times. The new facility is well set up at the end of a small vineyard that belongs to Gilligan Wines. The name Gilligan is synonymous with Dowie Doole as the General Manager and a Viticulturist by that name works at Dowie Doole. They have a vineyard on California Road and in Blewitt Springs.

A structured tasting is offered where 5 wines are offered with tasting notes and 3 cheeses in a very pleasant surroundings of the tasting room. The tastings are by appointment only.  They are also working on the outside areas where functions for both inside and outside will be possible.

Now the wines…………

Second Nature Range
2010 Adelaide Hills Sauvignon Blanc ($A18)
This is all you would expect from an Adelaide Hills Sauvy – aromas of grass and passionfruit that continues to flavors of straw and passionfruit. What I was not expecting was the citrus flavors as there was a really good level of acid in the wine. I also got a sense of some residual sugar just before the acid kicks in. For those that like this variety why not check this out – you could do worse, you could have a kiwi inspired wine.

2008 Cabernet Sauvignon / Shiraz / Merlot ($A18)
When first opened the aromas were quite closed but eventually opened up to reveal a fresh berry compote with a small amount of freshly cut mint sprinkled over the berries. The berries continue on the palate with a fresh cherry chaser. A nice wine for this price point.

Dowie Doole Range
2010 Chenin Blanc ($A16)
This stable has a reputation for this variety and I have seen a number of good Chenin wines from these guys. Made from grapes from their Blewitt Springs and California vineyards and it is a little beauty. The glass smells of apples and citrus peel. The peel theme continues onto the flavors with some melons and the acid levels are again high – which is good. The whole comes together with the outcome being a good mouthfeel that makes you hungry for more. Bring it on.

2011 Chenin Blanc
Just been bottled and thus not released yet. Lots of passionfruit that jumps all over your nose and mouth. Will be a beauty once it has settled down after bottling, so one to look out for.

2008 Tintookie Chenin Blanc ($A30)
The Blewitt Springs Chenin vineyard is called Tintookie – Dowie Doole has been making good to great wines from this vineyard and in a climate of pulling out vines they are planting more Chenin here. What is also different is the wine is barrel fermented and it shows very quickly. The green apple aromas are complemented with the nuttiness of some French oak. Once you drink it you get lemons, but there is more to it. There is a creamy mouthfeel that is complemented by lengthy acid.

2009 Merlot ($A22)
Good fruit and smart oak has provided another good wine. Yes, I am suggesting a Merlot is a good wine. Plums with a hint of dustiness and a very interesting cloak finish to the aroma profile. The usual plums and cherries are here combined with some good dusty oak tannins. Again a surprise – minty flavors here as well.

2010 G & T (Garnacha & Tempranilo) ($A25)
55% Grenache and 45% Tempranillo to produce a Spanish theme. Only 6 months in oak has provided a really drinkable red under so many conditions. The red fruits almost smell sweet and combined with the subtle oak provides a vibrant lift out of the glass. Every mouthful asks you back for more with spicy red fruits with oak that does not dominate. An unusual blend that will not disappoint.

2009 Cabernet Sauvignon ($A25)
This was the surprise for me – I am not normally a Cabernet drinker but I could drink a heap of this. The aromas of blackcurrent and mint just fly out of the glass so much so, you don’t even have to do the “wanky thing” to get the aromas. I get cassis and chocolate with a minty finish. As I am finding with McLaren Vale Cabernet the usual donut effect where the flavors disappear in the mid palate, does not happen here. Good old McLaren Vale is having it’s effect and so the mid palate is there is spades.

2009 Shiraz ($A25)
Classical McLaren Vale plums and spice on the nose that makes one think of dark fruit cake. The classical McLaren Vale Shiraz comes through when you drink it as well – black cherries wrapped up with vanillin oak and a chocolate finish.

2008 Reserve Shiraz ($A60)
Things step up a notch here, the fruit and spice have so many extra dimensions. The aromas are so lifted with cherry and plum and the spice character gives you a sense of cinnamon and anise and classy envelope of vanilla. In the mouth the vanilla continues with a depth of plum and subtle spices of cinnamon and white pepper. An example of how good American oak can be with good Shiraz – it is a pity that generally we are moving away from American oak when it can produce such good wine.

N/V Moxie ($A25)
A sparkling red made from Shiraz, Malbec and Touriga with a distinct female play. The packaging has a sexy and fun feel with a take off of what could be seen as James Bond girl silhouettes. The grapes come mainly from Langhorne Creek to produce a mixture of fairy floss mixed with cherries and a few raspberries. There is juicy fruits and a fair hit of sugar here with the saving grace being the good acid hit that cleans up the palate. For me a bit sweet but I can see a lot of people loving it. The wine has a cult following in Germany and only a small proportion is kept in McLaren Vale for direct sales.

2010 Cane Cut Viognier ($A25 375 ml bottle)
As the name suggests the sweetness comes from cutting the canes on the vine to allow the fruit to dry and concentrate while still on the vine. There is no boytris infection here, but the juice still made over 17 Beaume. As expected for Viognier there is lots of apricots on both the nose and palate. What I found really good was the high level of acid that cleaned the mouth and tongue that allowed you to come back for more


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Mclaren Vale Wines (really from Adelaide Hills)- Griffin Wines

13 03 2011

Griffin Wines Entrance Views

Griffin Wines are in the hills above McLaren Vale and are classified as Adelaide Hills GI.  I have decided to review them as they are so close to McLaren Vale.  The Griffin’s (Trevor & Val) arrived in Kuitpo in the 70′s with the aim of finding their “place”.  Vines (26.5 ha) were planted in1997 with their first wine made in 2000.  The Sauvignon Blanc is made by Shaw & Smith (Adelaide Hills) and the reds are made by Phil Christiansen with the rest made by various people.  This wine making is not a hands off process for the family – they have a direct input into what happens with their fruit and wine.

Griffin Wines Property View

The wines are not just a reflection of the place they are grown and made but also of the Griffin family – to this end the family adorns their wine labels which have drawn international acclaim.

The house is opened only a few times every year for a “Cellar Door tasting” and they also hold functions at their property.  A once a year they also hold a wine dinner at Waverly House (South Terrace, Adelaide, South Australia) with live musicians and I am told lots of fun.

Their Web site can be found here.

The wines………..

2010 Sauvignon Blanc ($A17)

This is one for the Sauvignon Blanc drinkers out there.  Lots of Sauvy grassyness and passionfruit and as expected from the Adelaide Hills there is a good acid backbone.  Why would you even consider the junk from across the ditch when you can this here at a relatively good price.

2009 Sauvignon Blanc ($A17)

Sorry to say this wine is showing it’s age and is one to miss – goto the 2010 wine and do not pass go!

2009 Chardonnay ($A11)

I stand by my view that Chardonnay needs some oak treatment to provide complexity that many find compelling from this classic variety.  Here is an unwooded version that is pleasant but brings little complexity to the table.  I found the 2008 version so much more appealing.

2008 Chardonnay ($A15)

Some toasty aromas and flavors here – maybe some small amount of oak was showing through.  There is also some creaminess here so I suspect there is some malolactic fermentation action as well.  Both of these mean there is complexity here and one worth checking out.

2006 Pinot Noir ($A29)

Highly enjoyable earthy with cherry notes.  I liked this for the good acid and multi-dimensional fruit and tannin complexity.

2007 Pinot Noir ($A25)

The aromas here were more more vibrant than the 2006 with sweet cherry and floral hints.  I was very interested in the tannin and acid feel on the tongue.

2008 Pinot Noir ($A25)

Compared to the previous wines this was limited.  The aromas were few and far between and the flavors were very short.

2009 Pinot Noir($A26)

I got sweet cherries and nice firm tannins.  I suspect a few more years is needed to see this wine anywhere near it’s best.

2007 Merlot ($A20)

Plumy and earthy aromas combined with blackberry fruit flavors and well balanced tannins.  Not my scene but for those that like this variety it would be one to check out.

2006 Merlot ($A22)

Showing some developed character which made me think the 2007 was better at this time.  There was ribena like fruit that was somewhat one dimensional.

2008 Shiraz ($A19)

Quite different that the McLaren Vale Shiraz wines – due to the cooler ripening environment.  Funny I say that for the 2008 vintage, as it was hot everywhere.  All the spice plums with tannins you would expect.  Compared to the rest of the Shiraz wines below this wine is a little hot on the palate and somewhat raisiny – though neither are over them top.

2007 Shiraz ($A22)

Intense Shiraz aromas with similar fruit sweetness (as per the above wine) and quite soft tannins.  The tannin structure is so lighter than McLaren Vale Shiraz – some will like that and some will not.  Which one are you?

2006 Shiraz ($A23)

The complexity of a good vintage is shown in this wine – particularly after the previous Shiraz offerings that were from drought years.  Here is spice, perfume and cigar box (from the oak) aromas.  The flavors start with the plums and black fruits and show the complexity of good tannins (oak and fruit tannins) wrapped in an envelope of good acid.  I suggest this wine is just showing the integration of the components and give the best indicator yet that these wine need some bottle age to show the real character of the wine.

2005 Shiraz ($A25)

I found this wine a little developed and porty.  I am no expert here, but I suspect that the old barrels used for the aging of this wine had Brett – which means some people will like it and others will be turned off.  I am the latter.

2008 “The Griff” Shiraz ($A115/case of 12 bottles)

This wine is the response to the cleanskin request that most wineries get.  In this case the thoughts were that a cleanskin wine should still be good enough to show which winery the wine has come from and so why not promote your brand.  The 2007 version of “The Griff” sold out quickly and the winery is taking pre-release orders so I suspect the 2008 version will be quick to leave the winery.  The wine has been good enough to win a couple of Bronze medals and even thought the aromas were minimal the flavors of plum, black fruits with dusty oak, this wine is good value.


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McLaren Vale Wines – Marienberg and Fern Hill Estate

18 12 2010

Marienberg Cellar Door

The Marienberg Cellar Door has just re-opened after refurbishment of the adjacent restaurant.  They have also moved the cellar door location onto the McLaren Vale Main Street.  This looked like a smart move as previously the outlet was around the corner on Chalk Hill Road.

I was looking forward to visiting the newest cellar door in the area, but that emotion was soon changed to “what am I doing here”.  The cellar door is at the end of the restaurant and it looked like the dumping ground for the items needed to get away from the bar.  There was dirty dishes and generally just stuff all around.  Once directed to use the top of a wine barrel I was then treated to open bottles of wines that had no more than their stelvin caps on – no looking after the wine with oxygen removal options or wine shields.  This made me wonder how long the wines were open and how fresh was the wine.  You can see my comments below are not very complementary and I must say that I found my worst McLaren Vale cellar door.

2008 Marienberg Unwooded Chardonnay ($A16)

Straight away the wine showed aged chemical characters that were unpleasant.

2009 Fern Hill Estate Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc ($A16)

All the typical flavors of New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc – strong passionfruit and gooseberry aromas plus passionfruit flavours with an acidic citrus finish.  The wine will probably sell well but for me – why have an overseas wine when we need to support the Australian wine industry.

2009 Marinberg Sauvignon Blanc Semillon ($A16)

Not good – closed aromas with flavors that would be a mixture of cats pee with tropical juice.  No way.

2008 Fern Hill Estate Viognier ($A16)

Toasty, bitter oxidized aromas and flavors.  Again, I could not drink this.

2005 Fern Hill Estate Adelaide Hills Merlot ($A16)

The aromas started with some good mulberry fruit and has a smokiness on the finish.  The flavors were dominated by fruit sweetness, smokey oak and some nice acid on the finish.  There was a slight bitterness that drew you away from the wine – the alcohol on this wine was not high so the bitterness would be seen as a fault in the wine.

2006 Marineberg Cabernet Merlot ($A16)

I could not get any aromas from this wine, even though the bottle had been open before I arrived.  The expected black fruits were here with a dusty tannin finish but nothing else.  There was no lingering effect on the palate – once you have swallowed the wine there is no sensation left.  Yet again, I cannot see why anybody would want to drink this.

2008 Fernhill Estate Adelaide Hills Cabernet Sauvignon ($A16)

Aromas were black fruits with a meaty undertone that was concerning.  Classical blackcurrent and cigar box characters with good acid levels and a strong finish.  Clean and basic but not inspiring.

2005 Marinberg Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon ($A22)

This is down right nasty – porty and oxidised so just not right.  I cannot believe this is classified as a Reserve wine.  Keep your money.

2007 Fern Hill Estate McLaren Vale Shiraz ($A16)

This was easily the best wine here – the aromas were hints of plum with lots of vanilla (from the American oak).  The flavors here was real fruit sweetness with some American oak sweetness as well.  The use of oak was much better here and the finish had a slight bitterness that was probably due to high alcohol levels.  Drink this with something fatty (to take the edge away from the bitterness) such as bangers and mash (sausages and mashed potatoes).

2006 Marinberg Reserve Shiraz ($A22)

This was Ok but not as good as the above Shiraz.  Here was a wine that had lots of plums and oak integration.  It has fair components but just not inspiring enough for me to part with  my money.

2004 The Clifton McLaren Vale Cabernet Sauvignon ($A39)

This wine is just nasty – cannot believe this wine is marketed as a premium wine.  Porty and oxidized like a number of the other red wines.


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McLaren Vale Wines – Leconfield (home of Richard Hamilton Wines)

5 12 2010

This cellar door is one of the new classy style – with lots of new wood, stainless steel and glass.  The driveway shows off well manicured vineyards with lots of red roses (the roses also act as a early waring for some vine diseases).

Leconfield Wines Driveway

The grassed area next to the cellar door is used for the McLaren Vale venue for the “A Day on the Green” concerts.  Check out the concert series web site.

The cellar door is open 10 am to 5 pm daily and serves platters (such as ploughman’s lunch) every day as well.  The staff are friendly and I would recommend this as a stop for visitors into the McLaren Vale region.

Leconfield Wines Complex

And now the wines……..

NV Syn Cuvee ($A17.50)

Made mainly from McLaren Vale fruit (with some Coonawarra fruit added) – 79% Chardonnay, 19% Pinot Noir and 2% Riesling.  The wine has been made with yeast in mind – the bready yeast is dominate on both the aromas and flavor profiles.  As you would expect from a Chardonnay dominate wine there is peach characters as well.  I was presently surprised by the refreshing acid length that leaves the mouth and the mind wanting more.  A girl friend of mine just loves this wine, where she drinks it just sitting around chatting to her friends.
2010 Richard Hamilton Sauvignon Blanc Semillon ($A15.50)

The 27% Semillon in this wines makes a marked difference to the overall balance.  The aromas start with the gooseberries (Sauvignon Blanc), goes onto grassyness (from the Semillon) with some lime notes on the finish.  This finish on the nose makes me think the flavors will have a high acid influence – I was right.  The flavors start with tropical notes and then goes to the lime/acid finish.  Overall a much better wine that I would expect if it was Sauvignon Blanc on it’s own.  A nice plate of antipasta that just has to have some home made Pickled Onions.
2010 Richard Hamilton Slate Quarry  Riesling ($A15.50)

This wine has an interesting following – if for no other reason that it is one of the few quality Rieslings made in the McLaren Vale region.  True to variety I get limes and floral aromas.  The wine is drier that I expected (which is good) and it is just a jumble of zesty lemon and limes all over the mouth.  I can see this wine going so well with asian foods as it will compliment the varied flavor profiles and textures of this type of food.
2010 Leconfield Coonawarra Old Vines Riesling ($A24.95)

It has been a while since I have had a Coonawarra Riesling (I used to drink a fair bit of Wynns in years gone by) and after having the pleasure of tasting some Eden Valley Riesling last week and I can confirm that the Coonawarra offering is not quite in the same class but it is a jump up from the McLaren Vale wine.  This wine had more floral than citrus aromas that just moved into this wonderful razor sharp lemon and lime acids.  I feel people that open this wine should have Coffin Bay oysters (natural of course) in their future.
2009 Richard Hamilton Almond Grove Chardonnay ($A15.50)

I know I generalise but this is what Chardonnay should be like – some toasty oak integration from partial barrel fermentation and the textural feel from extended lees contact.  The flavor of nectarines is wrapped with the creaminess all covered in an integrated oak envelope – yes it should be obvious by now that I really like this wine.  At this price the wine should be walking off the shelves to be consumed with chicken dishes like Oven Baked Chicken Breast fillet stuffed with smoked semi dried tomato and brie served with fresh pasta stirred through with home made pesto.
2009 Leconfield Coonawarra Chardonnay ($A24.95)

The aromas were closed but the palate was a mouthful of peaches and slight oakiness.  This wine is more refined and is longer lasting, but my money is on the Richard Hamilton version.
2009 Richard Hamilton Jette’s Viognier ($A15.50)

Again a little closed with just a hint of stone fruit coming through.  30% of the wine was left on lees for 6 weeks and this shows on the flavor profile as there is a layered textural feel with peaches and cream.  The wine has a real soft finish so it is one for people that do not like the acid razor slashing over the tongue.
2010 Richard Hamilton Gida’s Rose ($A15.50)

This is a fist for me – a Rose made from Merlot.  The wine is only slightly sweet and is just dominated by strawberries – lots and lots of them.  I can see a hot day and many people seeing the bottom of a bottle or two of the Gida’s Rose, while consuming a ploughman’s lunch (like those served at the cellar door).
2010 Richard Hamilton Late Harvest Riesling ($A15.50)

The grapes for this were ripened for an extra month compared to the Slate Quarry Riesling and the wine was not as sweet as I thought.  A big winner at the cellar door where I am sure people just need to taste it and there is a large part of the population that will just love it.  All the same floral and citrus notes as the Slate Quarry without the sharp acid that would not be like by a proportion of drinkers – and good luck to them.  The asian food theme fits well here – particularly if one wants to tone down a chilli based meal with a glass or six of this.
NV Syn Rouge ($A17.50)

Sparkling Shiraz – oh how I love you!  This 2008 wine at this price is why I think everybody should be drinking good sparkling reds.  I got Raspberries and cherries with some serious oak tannins on the finish.  There is a little residual sweetness here but not too much like some sparkling reds.  If you are looking for a special match for the traditional Christmas Turkey then look no further than a good Sparkling Red and this one would fit the bill nicely.
2009 Richard Hamilton Lot 148 Merlot ($A18.50)

Plenty of fruit sweetness that fits the plum and cranberry hits one expects from Merlot.  What I did not expect was the cinnamon flavors from the clever use of oak.  Still not my style of wine however I can see a lot of people liking this one.
2009 Richard Hamilton Shiraz ($A18.50)

I was looking forward to this as the 2008 version was highly regarded.  What I found was what I would classify as a “typical McLaren Vale Shiraz”.  This version has seen some American oak action as you get vanilla and coconut action.  The plums and drying tannins are just what this variety shows in McLaren Vale.
2009 Leconfield McLaren Vale Shiraz ($A24.95)

Just to confuse you this Leconfield wine is made from grapes sourced in McLaren Vale (not from Coonawarra).  There is American oak sweetness here with all the nutmeg and cinnamon you would want for.  Plenty of juicy Shiraz fruit here also.  Put it all together and there is a good all round package.  This wine is more refined that the previous and has a greater life expectancy than the above wine but I am still drawn to it.
2009 Richard Hamilton Hut Block Cabernet Sauvignon ($A18.50)

Minimal aromas here with all the flavors one would expect from a McLaren Vale Cabernet – lots of sweet Blackcurrent fruits with fine drying tannins on the finish.  I can see a thick slice of Beef Wellington in this wine’s future.
2009 Leconfield Coonawarra Cabernet Merlot ($A24.95)

Again the aromas were somewhat closed but the flavors were full of sweet fruits and fine tannins.  True to expectations this wine has a softness imparted in some way from the Merlot – an elegant and refined structure that please those that like this style.
NV Richard Hamilton Lion Heart Tawny ($A18.50)

A lighter mouthfeel and viscosity than I expected however the aromas and flavors are not light.  This has all the warming , sweetness and character of this fortified.  Another style that is not popular but once tried the wine tends to sell its self.  A plate of vintage cheddar, water crackers and dried muscatel grapes and watch this wine just disappear.

Other Wines (Not tasted)
2006 Burton’s Vineyard Grenache Shiraz ($A39.95)
2009 Centurion Old Vines Shiraz ($A59.95)


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McLaren Vale Wines – Middlebrook Estate

23 10 2010

Middlebrook Estate Cellar Door & Function Centre

Middlebrook is a McLaren Vale restaurant and function center that specialises on Weddings (where the Rotunda comes into it’s own).  I have been visiting the cellar door on an infrequent basis since 1986 and the inside of the function center has seen many changes for this McLaren Vale function institution.

I can still remember my first visit when I was introduced to Duris (see below) and it was just so different I was not sure about it on the first try – so I asked for another taste.  Well the look from the lady working the cellar door indicated she thought this was a request of some drunk.  Anyway, I did get another taste and then there was no complaints as I walked out with a case of this very unusual liqueur.

Now days the wines seem to be made to suit the catering for the masses at wedding functions ie lighter bodied and sweet wines.  If this is their aim they do well – so well that a number of the wines were not available for tasting as they were in limited quantities and those remaining were reserved for future functions.

To me all I really care about is to see they keep making Duris!

Middlebrook Estate Gazebo

N/V Cogno Brothers Cuve Brut ($A10)

A nice clean and neutral bubbly that is popular for the wedding parties that utilise the facility.

2005 Cogno Brothers “Cin Cin” Pinot Grigio ($A15)

Shows that aging of this variety does not make much sense.  There were developed characters here with most of the fruit flavors almost gone.  There was also a slight bitter after taste.  Life is too short………

2008 Middelbrook “Contessa” Unwooded Chardonnay ($A15)

After the disappointment of the Pinot Grigio and then to be offered an unwooded Chardonnay, I started to think this was going to be a long, long tasting!  Well I was wrong again.  This wine showed really nice dried peach aromas (maybe some residual sulphur coming through).  The flavors were peach again plus some apricot that provided an interesting textural mouthfeel.  I could see why this wine was only available for functions as it would just evaporate on a hot day with a few people at a gathering.

N/V Middlebrook Ma Cheri Moscato ($A15)

As expected there was loads of grapey sweetness with some bubbles added – again a walk in start at most functions.

2008 “Cin Cin” Sangiovese ($A15)

Macerated cherries that were dropped and rolled around on the ground – if you can imagine this and add some oak tannins and this is what I was tasting.  Sangiovese and value for money means a match for many menus at such a function house.

2006 Cogno Brothers Family Selection Merlot ($A15)

Mulberries and cherries in an obvious tannic mix and a dry finish.  Merlot oh Merlot you are still not my style of wine.

2006 Cogno Brothers Family Selection Barbera ($A15)

This wine was all about drinking spiced fruit cake.  All the aromas and flavors brought one back to this fruit cake recipe.  I can see a lot of people liking this style.  Matching food with this would be challenging to ensure the flavors are complimentary.

2006 Cogno Brothers Family Selection Shiraz ($A15)

So typical of a lot of Shiraz one finds around.  Sweet fruit (plums & Cherries) aromas that evolve into the plum fruit that is Shiraz.  The overall wine experience is a little lighter than what I would consider “normal” and again I can see a lot of people liking it for that reason.  It also works well as this wine would suit many different food styles – just like the differences at a function.

2005 Joseph Cogno “Il Padrino” Cabernet Shiraz ($A20)

The aromas were closed but this does not give a clear indication of what is to come.  The flavors are well balanced between black fruits, soft tannins and good acid length.  Again this good old Aussie blend does good things.  The wine has length but is not too heavy – again a theme for this winery.

N/V Middlebrook Duris ($A25)

Again a treat that has been bringing me back to Middlebrook Estate in McLaren Vale since 1986.  A Honey Cumquot Liqueur that has great length and citrus character.  The flavors start with the honey and continue onto the citrus that is the cumquot (probably best described as a mix of mandarin and lemons).  There is a hint of complexity here that seems like the cumquot peel.  This blend has less obvious alcohol than what I remember from previous tastings, but the overall effect is not diminished.   Other than drinking it straight after a meal, my best use has been as an integrate part of the fruit mince used for the Xmas pudding and Fruit Mice Pies.  I macerate the dried fruits in Duris, Brandy and fortified wines that are handy.

Wines not taste or not availiable:-

Cobbity Cooler range

Cogno Brothers Deluxe Rose (sparkling)

Cogno Brothers “Black Harvest” Sparkling Grenache

Cogno Brothers Frontignan Spaetlese

Cogno Brothers Bin 77 Fruity White

Cogno Brothers Camden Gold

Cogno Brothers La Morra Rose

Cogno Brothers Cobbitty Classic Red (sweet)

Cogno Brothers “Black Harvest” Still Grenache

Middelbrook Scenario (Viognier Chardonnay)


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McLaren Vale Wines – Gemtree

9 10 2010

 

Salopian Inn - Gentree's Cellar Door

 

Gemtree shares it’s cellar door with Dowie Doole – at the Salopian Inn – check out my review of Dowie Doole.

The cellar door offers wine flights with cheese & lavosh breads and 6 wines.  The wines are from both Gentree & Dowie Doole with either 6 reds or 5 whites and the sparkling red.  You also get tasting notes of the wines and a run down of information from the cellar door staff.

For those visiting during winter there is an open fireplace for that wonderful warmth you get from smoldering wood.

Gemtree is getting a name for promoting organic and in particular biodynamic wines and it will be interesting seeing their development in the coming years.

2010 Moonshine Savagnin ($A16)

A biodynamic vineyard producing a wine variety that I have hardly tried before – well this was an interesting start.  The interest continued as I thoroughly enjoyed this wine.  There was lots of stone fruits here (peaches and nectarines) that makes way for a lingering acid finish.  My understanding is that this variety is of interest in Australia as the grapes produce a good flavor / acid balance in hotter climates.  I must say this wine makes me want to know more about the variety.  The great acid balance in the wine makes me think it would go well with tomato based sauces and pasta.

2009 Citrine Chardonnay ($A16)

Who said Chardy is dead?  Another reasonably priced Chardonnay that has good oak integration (from 100 days in oak) – all the melons, cedar and acid one expects from this variety.  Again the McLaren Vale region and chardonnay makes a good mix – I still wonder why McLaren Vale tries to make white wines of inferior quality.

2009 Luna Raja Tempranillo ($A25)

Bring on the biodynamic vineyards – this wine exhibits some of what is good about Tempranillo – earthy, spices and a lovely tannin structure.

2009 Bloodstone Shiraz ($A16)

Straight away the aromas showed over ripe and even stewed fruit.  This theme continued onto the flavors sweet plums, black cherries with a tannic finish.  Keep your money – there are better wines for this price.

2008 Uncut Shiraz ($A19)

Ripe fruits shown by the licorice, anise and plum aromas followed by ripe plums and black fruits with a distinct licorice finish.  Another 2008 red wine that shows how difficult this vintage was.

2009 The Red Phantom Red Blend 1 ($A25)

When they say a red blend they mean it – Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot & Petit Verdot.  I get aromas of Floral (mainly violets) – quite probably from the Petit Verdot.  Then the aroma profile of herbecous with with real green capsicums – all from the Cabernet.  The cabernet dominates in the flavor spectrum – blackcurrents, little mint and some greenness.  The finish is so dry it leaves you teeth feeling like they are fir coated.

2007 White Lees Shiraz ($A45)

Now here was a surprise – the aromas are dominated by violets.  Not what I expected from Shiraz – particularly from McLaren Vale Shiraz.  There is just lots and lots of complexity here – layers of fruit, tannin structure and French oak characters.  Leave this alone for a few years and try it with seared Kangaroo.

2008 Petit Verdot ($A25)

The floral notes I quite often find in this variety are here again.  I also get plums, pepper and just a little blackberry.  For those Petit Verdot fans out there this is one to try.

Not Tasted

2007 Obsidian Shiraz


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McLaren Vale Wines – Dowie Doole

3 10 2010

Dowie Doole & Gemtree Cellar Door

Dowie Doole has their cellar door combined with Gemtree Wines in one of McLaren Vale‘s historic landmarks – the Salopian Inn.  The Salopian Inn has been famous for it’s high quality food using regional Fleurieu produce.  Under new management this historical McLaren Vale landmark now is not only the home to a quality regional produce dining experience, there is a wine list sourced by a Master of Wine, the home for Vale Ale (a new beer branded around McLaren Vale) plus the combined cellar door.

Salopian Inn

Check out the Lonely Grape cellar door map for the location of this cellar door.

2009 Second Nature Sauvingnon Blanc ($A18)

This wine was unusual for it’s restrained aromas unlike the norm for this variety.  When you drink it there is the usual cut grass and the ripe passionfruit that is typical for the riper fruit sourced from McLaren Vale.  It is not for me but I can see the wine being a big seller so why not!

2008 Tintookie Chenin Blanc ($A30)

Dowie Doole is known for this variety and is up there with Coriole as McLaren Vale’s quality producer of wine from this often frowned upon variety.  The aromas were restrained – almost like the wine is moving from a fruit based phase to a more mature style.  Thus I was looking forward to drinking this wine.  The flavors were like drinking essence of Nashi pear with a lingering acid length.  There is plenty and body here to still have a long life.  The wine did not disappoint – it does show what Chenin Blanc can do.

2009 Merlot ($A22)

Here is the typical Merlot mulberries here in abundance with some mild influences of cedary oak.  There is 10% Cabernet Sauvignon here that gives the wine some extra backbone that I suspect the wine would not have had without it.  The softness here will appeal to many people, but me ……..

2009 Garnacha & Tempranillo ($A25)

I was looking forward to this wine as the boys from Qwoff spoke of it so highly – by the way Garnacha is Grenache and a very different G & T indeed.

The red fruits of the 65% Grenache really shows through on the nose and the 35% Tempranillo’s earthyness is the dominant flavors.  As should be the case with Grenache based wines the tannins are soft but still structured.  I have not had this blend before and I hope this is not the last time.  Roll out a wood fired oven backed pizza.

2008 Second Nature Cabernet Sauvignon, Shiraz & Merlot ($A18)

Sweet black fruits here in both aromas and flavors with just a little oak.  Maybe the product of a very difficult vintage but the sweet fruit character was not in line with what I would look for in a red wine, so this one is not for me.

2007 Cabernet Sauvignon ($A22)

Minimal aromas were followed by an interesting black cherry flavor that I was not expecting from a Cabernet Sauvignon.  The rest of the flavors were typical of Cabernet – blackcurrent and dusty oak integration with a nice length.  This is a nice Cabernet at the price point and would go well with a Rogan Josh.

2008 Shiraz ($A25)

All the elements of a McLaren Vale Shiraz are here – plums plus the spices of pepper, cardamon.  There is a slightly bitter finish – maybe indicating high alcohol.  Again something did not seem right with the overall potential enjoyment of this wine – the elements are there but the whole does not do justice to what the variety can do in McLaren Vale.

2008 California Road Shiraz ($A35)

Hold the fort – this single vineyard wine is such a large jump in quality and after the previous wine, my faith is restored!  The aromas were plums, plums and more plums with that hint of dusty oak.  Flavors were just like “essence of McLaren Vale Shiraz in a glass”.  Plums again with vanilla characters that move apart for the dusty tannins to make their entrance.  There is length here and not just the tannins – the fruit just seems to go on and on for miles.  This was definately the best wine I tried from this stable and it is worth every cent.  A high quality steak with a porchini mushroom sauce would be a spectacular combination.

Not tasted

2006 Reserve Shiraz

N/V Moxie Sparkling Red

2006 Sticky Bits Botytris Semillon


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McLaren Vale Wines – Maxwell Wines Part 2 Red Wines

25 09 2010

Maxwell Wines Road Sign

Check out Part 1 of this review which talks about the white wines, mead (honey wine) and the fortified.

The Maxwell Cellar door facility is also available for functions (including weddings) and from 1st October they will be offering the Quartet, which is 4 courses of food matched with Maxwell wines.  This will be offered on Friday to Sundays.

The menu is:-

Lobster Bisque with prawn & coriander mousseline (Adelaide Hills Chardonnay)

Smoked salmon Roulade with fresh seasonal greens, olive tapernade & caper berry dressing (Little Deamon Verdelho)

Confit of duck breast with blood orange with wild rocket, devilled almonds & Cointreau nectar (Where’s Molly Rose)

BBQ pork belly with a piquante chilli pineapple crush (Four Roads SGV)

Maxwell Wines Cellar Door

2010 Where’s Molly Rose ($A15)

The aromas and first flavors are your classic strawberries and cream.  Then things go backwards.  This is a sweet style with almost no flavor past the mid palate and the wine has almost no finish.  What is there has some bitterness.  A big pass for me.

2008 Little Demon Cabernet Merlot ($A15)

Here was some vegetative and blackcurrent characters that is so typical for Cabernet Sauvignon that also has the Merlot softness.  The thing that was a little different was the soft tannin structure that seemed like black tea.  This 75%/25% blend is a good easy drinking Cafe style drinking – share and enjoy.

2008 Four Roads GSV ($A18)

How interesting a Shiraz (82%), Grenache (13%) and Viognier (5%) blend.  From my tastings around McLaren Vale so far I can only remember 1 other GSV blend.  I also noted that the Shiraz & Viognier was co-fermented.  On this basis alone I was looking forward to this.

The aromas were some what closed (a new bottle was opened for me) but it did start to open up, showing some red fruits, with a few minutes letting it breath so I suspect one should decant the wine before drinking.  The flavors were interesting – red fruits, blueberry, cardamon all with a touch of oak.  I suspect there was maturation in large oak barrels.  Bring on a nice gourmet pizza and pass this wine – thanks.

2008 Silver Hammer Shiraz ($A18)

If I had to describe this wine in one word it would be “juicy”.  If I could use 2 words it would be “Juicy Plums”.  If you like an up frount fruit driven wine then this would be one to try in the “good value” category.  Full aromas and flavors of plum, blackberry, chocolate, mocha and earthy.  I expect this wine to be a big “hit”.  The juicy flavors would match well with a bowl of Spaghetti Bolognese toped with that wonderful Parmesan cheese.

2007 Ellen Street Shiraz ($A32)

Maxwell wines is known for this wine so again I was looking forward to a wine made from the vines in front of the winery, that were planted in 1953 and the wine spent 24 months in oak.

I call this typically McLaren Vale Shiraz – good plum fruit that links so well into the McLaren Vale mid palate with white pepper spice and vanilla from the American Oak.  The overall effect provides a viscous and lengthy experience.

This wine is well priced for the quality when I compare it to others around McLaren Vale.  I would like to see it a few more years in the bottle to show it’s best and then a big thick T Bone steak (vegies optional).

2007 Lime Cave Cabernet Sauvignon ($A32)

The vines for this wine are behind the winery and were planted in 1972.  The Lime Cave shows some special features of this site with a limestone cave being available for functions.

Aromas of the Cabernet blackcurrent and smokey from the oak.  The flavors are based around sweet blackcurrent fruit integrated with dried thyme that just creates a lengthy experience.  This is an impressive Cabernet and would work well with Beef Wellington.

2008 Minotaur Reserve Shiraz ($A75)

This wine will be released on 1st November and I just happened to see an opened bottle sitting to one side of the cellar door tasting bench – and I talked my way into getting a taste.

Here was strength – strength of plum fruit, of violets, vanilla and coffee.  This is essence of McLaren Vale Shiraz and I felt all the better for trying it!  Wonderful drinking now but I believe it will get better over quite a few years.  Needs very strong foods like venison pie to work with the flavors of the wine.


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McLaren Vale Wine – Kay Brothers Amery Vineyards

10 07 2010

Kay Brothers Amery Vineyards Road Sign

Kay Brothers Amery Vineyards is one of the original vineyards of the McLaren Vale region.  First plantings were in 1859 with the Kay Brothers purchasing the property in 1890.  The current winemaker, Colin Kay, is third generation family winemaker.  The winery is well know for it’s flagship red wine – the Block 6 Shiraz.  The old vines for this wine produce such small amounts that you can only purchase the wine from the winery if you are a wine club member and commit to purchasing 6 other wines.    The wine club is worth signing up for as you get discounts on the wine (available from the time you join ie if you join at the cellar door then you can get the discount straight away).

Kay Brothers Gardens & Surrounds

The cellar door has a a wonderful view of the vineyard covered valley running down from the winery.  There are old vineyard equipment examples and picnic tables around the large grassed areas – perfect for kids to safely run around.  I have been to the cellar door on  may occasions and there is definitely a sense of old world and a smiling face to greet you.  If you have not been there yet it is one that you should visit.

The cellar door is open 9 – 5 on weekdays and 12 – 5 on weekends and public holidays.  Their new web site is at www.kaybrothersamerywines.com

Kay Brothers Cellar Door

2008 Eden Valley Riesling ($A22)

Not what I was expecting to see an Eden Valley Riesling here in McLaren Vale.  The fruit came from 60 year old vines and produces a wine full with lemons and limes with some apples and the usual flintyness that one expects from Eden Valley Riesling.  The wine was just starting to show some aged characters on the nose, so I expect this wine will soon be transitioning from the fruit driven youthfulness to kerosene nuances of older Riesling.  The crisp acid finish is just begging to be consumed with freshly cooked but cold shellfish.

2008 Amery Vineyards Viognier ($A22)

The nose on this wine was closed, however the flavors had pears and nectarines and quite a lengthy finish.  These flavors were unusual for a Viognier, but there was no real interest for me to purchase this wine – so a pass for me.

2010 Amery Vineyards Viognier ($A22)

Even before I got the glass up to my nose I could get some significant aromas of passionfruit and other tropical fruits with a hint of grassyness.  The flavors just kept on going with the same theme with lots of good acid.  A marked step up from the previous wine (note that there was no Viognier made in 2009 due to the heat wave conditions).  This would go well with many different Asian foods – how about an old favorite Thai Green Chicken Curry.

Amery Vineyards

2005 Amery Vineyards Merlot (A$22)

Another unusual offering.  This Merlot sparked my interest.  The aromas had the usual plum, but there was rhubarb and a hint of peppermint as well.  The flavors had cherries and mulberries with quite pleasant layers of tannin that drew you into a slightly bitter finish.  One of the more interesting Merlots I have found for a long time – a pitty about the hint of bitterness on the finish.  Still if you like Merlot and would drink it with food then I would check this out.  Food matching would lead me to a Beef stir fry – say Broccoli Beef Noodle Stir Fry.

2007 Amery Basket Pressed Cabernet Merlot ($A22)

The floral aromas blend into flavors of blackcurrent and mulberries.  The finish is very dry – the tannins seem to suck all the moisture from your mouth and even coat the tongue.  The overall effect is lingering however the very dry finish makes me think this wine needs a year or 2 to mellow before being at it’s drinking best.

2005 Amery Shiraz ($A22)

An interesting blend of blackberry and vanilla aromas make way for the flavors of ripe plums, vanilla (from the American oak) and really nice white pepper.  The overall effect was good and was lingering.  A step up from the other reds so far.  It is also good to see reds with a bit of age on them being sold through cellar door (though I hope this is not because they have not been able to sell the wine).  How about a Tuscan Burger to go with this.

2006 Amery Basket Pressed Shiraz ($A22)

Another step up! the 2006 was a good vintage and this shows in this wine – Yum.  An interesting aroma mix of plums with tobacco and eucalyptus (just on the back of the nose).  The flavors infuse plum, fennel, blackberry and oak (well balanced).  The fruit flavors are from fleshy fresh fruit and not your stewed styles and the finish is just so persistent.  At this price I seriously suggest you get some of this wine.  As a winter comfort food lets have a big plate of ricotta gnocchi with a spicy tomato and basil based sauce.

2004 Hillside Shiraz ($A40)

Oh how I love these steps – the 28 months in oak (about 50% new oak) has really made a difference in this wine.  Black cherries on the nose and flavors of blackberry spices (fennel, nutmeg and pepper), vanilla and milk chocolate.  There is no oak monster here the fruit and oak blend well together to make a very interesting whole.  This wine is just made to go with slow braised lamb shanks.

2006 Hillside Shiraz ($A40)

What a difference a couple of years and a good vintage makes.  The quality that the 2006 vintage brings to the table is shown with this wine output.  This wine is significantly more a fruit wine combined with very cleaver oak use with aromas of floral plums, pepper and hints of fresh leather.  The flavors start with spicy mulberries and finish with cedar, tar and dark chocolate.  A very pleasant dry finish that leaves the mouth wanting more.  I can see that both the 2004 and 2006 wines are very different and will appeal to different people and with different foods – this is one of the reasons I love wine the variations and permutations available to the skilled winemaker for us to taste.  How about a serving of Rosemary and garlic roast lamb with crispy roast potatoes and peas?

2010 Moscato ($A22)

This sweet offering has quite a following from the cellar door patrons and the last time I was at the cellar door this wine was sold out.  It is good to see more to this wine than just sugar and grapyness.  On both the nose and the palate there were lots of green apples and a lovely finish of cleansing acid.  I can see many a bottle of this being consumed in the great outdoors during summer.

Amery Founders Very Old Tawny Solera ($A22 375 mL bottle)

This wine was first released to celebrate the winery centenary (I still have my bottle of the first release sitting in my wine fridge).  This blend has an average age of 16 years and I must say this shows everything a tawny “port” should bring to the table.  The richness, the nuttiness combined with just so many flavors into an experience that needs to be shared.

Amery Founders Grand Liqueur Muscat ($A22 375 mL bottle)

This one is about 14 years old (on average) and is just like drinking a raisin based Christmas Pudding.  There is a lovely viscous mouthfeel here that just lingers and lingers.  I am thinking a nice runny Brie with dried fruits and nuts while drinking this – but I must warn you I may not share this wine.  Worth every cent!

Rare Liqueur Muscat ($A60 375 mL bottle)

Made mainly from the 1992 vintage there is a real difference here compared to the above wine.  Here there is none of the freshness a solera system can provide – this is just concentrated yummyness.  This is a concentrated and intense viscous mothfull of toffee, figs, coffee and raisins.  If you can afford this then it is an experience just to try.  You will have to get your own though – I will not be sharing any of this with anybody!


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McLaren Vale Wine – Scarpantoni Estate Wines Part 2

5 06 2010

This is part 2 of a 2 part review of Scarpantoni Estate Wines – check out Part 1, which reviews the cleanskins, sparkling and white wines).

Scarpantoni Cellar Door & Winery Complex

This winery has a long history of a close Italian family producing wine quality grapes and wines.  From the hard work in clearing the land to plant the vines, we can now savour the fruits of this labour.  The wines have won many awards over the years with the 2007 Jimmy Watson Award being the most recent of the prestigious awards.

Red Wines

2009 Ceres Rose ($A14)
I remember when this wine was first released I was eager to get some to try.  I had not tried an Australian wine that was predominately Gamay.  I was not disappointed then and I am not disappointed now.  There is some complexity here in a light red.  Aromas of rose water, cherries and strawberry finish leads through to the flavors of fresh raspberries and cherries.  This wine is perfectly suited to consumption with a weekend lunch of a cheese platter and breads or a Ploughman’s Lunch (cheese, sliced meats, salami, pickles, pickled onions and crusty bread).

2007 Pedler Creek Merlot ($A14)
I got a sense of clever use of oak here – there is lots of plums here (both aromas and flavors) plus some oak driven chocolate/spice aromas and pepper/cedar flavors.  There was good length here, much longer than many sub $15 Merlots that I have tasted.  Lets share this one over a big bowl of pasta with a tomato and chilli sauce with lots of freshly grated Parmesan Cheese – with 2 forks, one for you and one for me.

2006 Pedler Creek Cabernet Sauvignon ($A14)
What we have here is a wine driven by smart use of oak – this is not a fruit driven wine.  The aromas are toasty chocolate with just a little green capsicum “herbaceous” character.  The flavours are dominated by oak driven toastyness, spice and chocolate – with the spice being particularly dominate on the finish.  There are black berries here as well – so it is not just oak!  There is a lot of complexity here – so much more than expected from a $14/bottle wine.  This is a definite wine to drink now and how about a pepper steak or sizzling Mongolian lamb.

2007 Pedler Creek Shiraz ($A14)
Another wine from the Pedler Creek wine that over delivers.  The black fruits of the Shiraz grapes are mixed well with the nutmeg and pepper combined with vanilla oak.  The finish is soft on tannins but long on effect.  Roast lamb shoulder roast with garlic slithers & rosemary sprigs pushed into slits made into the flesh before roasting.

2005 School Block ($A15)
Made from 60% Shiraz with 30% Cabernet Sauvignon plus 10% Merlot.  The berries and toasty oak on the nose makes way to sweet black berries fruit that finishes with dry dusty tannins and hints of chocolate.

2008 Block 3 Shiraz ($A36)
The wine is made from on of the blocks that is close to the winery with these vines being about 60 years old.  Most of the grapes were picked before the 2008 heat wave.  The wine was maturated in 100% American oak of which about 50% was new oak barrels.  The wine aromas were a little closed – probably due to the wine being recently bottled.  The components of the type of Shiraz that McLaren Vale is known for – plums and black fruits combined with vanillin oak character with little licorice and spices.


2008 Brothers Block Cabernet Sauvignon ($A30)
Due to winery space constraints during the 2008 vintage, some of their Cabernet Sauvignon was picked latter that would have been seen as ideal.  The resultant wine is high in alcohol – labeled as 15%.  There is enough structure in this wine that the wine did not show any “alcohol hotness”.  The nose shows some of the ripeness with licorice and chocolate notes combining with blackcurrent fruits.  The flavors show sweet blackberry fruits with some mintyness, the spice character of cinnamon and nutmeg.  There is plenty of structure here that produces a lingering effect.

2008 Estate Reserve ($A36)
This wine is made from what is considered as the best wine from their individual wine barrel tastings.  This vintage this means a 80% Cabernet Sauvignon and 20% Shiraz.  I suspect the wine needs time to open up – at this tasting the nose was closed.  But the palate was a different matter – lots of red and black fruits with the cedar and vanillin oak characteristics.  The effect has a richness that I was not expecting and a soft tannin finish – but this finish lingers.  It is good to see Shiraz Cabernet or Cabernet Shiraz wines.

Liqueurs and Fortifides

Liqueur Riesling ($A26 375 mL bottle)
This wine used to be made at Scarpantoni’s in the late 80′s and the hot vintage conditions created an opportunity for a re-appearance.  I must say this wine was nothing like I was expecting.  I was looking for a viscous infusion of Riesling and old wood rancio character.  Well I could not have been more wrong.  On the nose I got a whiff of Mums old style baked apples with lots of cinnamon spice followed with a hint of stewed nectarine.  The palate was light, and not cloying, nashi pear with the spices from the nose still coming through.  Even this wine was fortified with neutral spirit the wine is only 17.5% alcohol, which probably goes with the lighter style.  I would try this with mum’s apple pie or even just pour some over some vanilla ice cream.

Liqueur Shiraz ($A30 375 mL bottle)
After trying the Liqueur Riesling I was looking forward to this Liqueur!  I was not disappointed, The aromas start with some lifted plums combined with a spiced rhubarb and go onto spice and blackberry notes.  The flavors were an infusion of plum, cherry, rhubarb, raisins with just a hint of chocolate.  The finish is not cloying and a fresh overall finish.  This would be a great mix with a plate of dried fruit and cheese.

1999 Vintage Port ($A28 500mL bottle)
Vintage Port is not a fashionable drink as is shown by a comment at the cellar door that this wine has not been made since 1999.  I enjoy the style but I do not drink it much as there is not many people I know to share it with – as once the bottle is open the wine “goes off” after a day or 2.  This wine is quite good with both the aromas and flavours of dark chocolate, raisins and a licorice finish.  There is nice warming spirit here as well.  This wine would be perfect with After Dinner Mints.


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